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Despite being in the middle of nowhere, Rzeszów is a bit of a treasure

Rzeszów should not be treated as some potluck stop-off, for were it not for its slightly unfortunate position on the map it would surely rate higher on Poland’s must-visit list.
Darek Delmanowicz/PAP

With the exception of Medyka and, perhaps, Przemyśl, I doubt that any other town in Poland has had more international exposure these past few months than Rzeszów.

As one of the principal gateways for Western aid heading east – both humanitarian and military – the city has become one of the war’s unwitting heroes: a town that did not ask for the spotlight, but was plunged into it regardless.

Camera crews, correspondents, fixers, soldiers, global leaders, aid workers and, even, Ben Stiller, have all rolled through in recent times, and in the process brought the city to the attention of the world. But, and this is a big ask, forget the war for a brief, fleeting moment, and think of Rzeszów in non-conflict terms.

For sure, many outside of Poland would never have heard of it before, let alone known how to pronounce its name. Those outsiders that would have previously visited, would have, by in large, been the kind of experimental weekenders that decide their destination on the throw of a dart or on the roll of some dice.

As one of the principal gateways for Western aid heading east – both humanitarian and military – the city has become one of the war’s unwitting heroes: a town that did not ask for the spotlight, but was plunged into it regardless.Jerzy Ochoński/PAP

But Rzeszów should not be treated as some potluck stop-off, for were it not for its slightly unfortunate position on the map (you know, as in the middle-of-nowhere) it would surely rate higher on Poland’s must-visit list. It is, after all, a bit of a treasure.

That much is underlined by its Old Town, the undisputed highlight of which is the Rynek – actually more of a wonky oblong than a traditional town square, its crowing jewel is an excessively Neo Gothic town hall that’s an exquisite composition of pointy towers and ornate little complexities.

Underlined by its Old Town, the undisputed highlight of which is the Rynek – actually more of a wonky oblong than a traditional town square, its crowing jewel is an excessively Neo Gothic town hall that’s an exquisite composition of pointy towers and ornate little complexities.Darek Delmanowicz/PAP

Admiring it, it’s as fantastical as a wedding cake. Yet what surrounds it isn’t so bad either – trimmed with elegant tenements, the cobbled market square has the kind of breath-taking quality one associates with stars such as Wrocław.Jerzy Ochoński/PAP

Admiring it, it’s as fantastical as a wedding cake. Yet what surrounds it isn’t so bad either – trimmed with elegant tenements, the cobbled market square has the kind of breath-taking quality one associates with stars such as Wrocław.

Rendered to ash and ruin on no less than thirteen occasions, this history has bestowed the area with a patchwork of styles of varying age – some older than others. For instance, take the canopied well. Thought to date to as far back as the 16th century, it was discovered by chance during building work undertaken in 2001.

The canopied well, thought to date to as far back as the 16th century, was discovered by chance during building work undertaken in 2001.Jerzy Ochoński/PAP

It was in this year, too, that one of the city’s chief attractions opened to the public. Running up to ten metres below the surface, ‘the underground tourist route’ takes visitors through  a 369-metre trail of subterranean tunnels and cellars that were used as storage units by medieval traders.

Along the way, those that tread the snaking path will observe scorch marks from the Great Fire of 1842, bricks bearing the fingerprints of medieval construction workers, and assorted ephemera excavated through the ages – a bottle of Hungarian plonk, ceramics, bars of soap and pots and pans.

Running up to ten metres below the surface, ‘the underground tourist route’ takes visitors through  a 369-metre trail of subterranean tunnels and cellars that were used as storage units by medieval traders.Darek Delmanowicz/PAP

During the war, many of these cellars served a new use, and it was inside them that many Jews hoped to hide from Nazi persecution. Prior to the occupation, 14,000 Jews called Rzeszów home (including the ancestors of Hollywood siren Natalie Portman), but only 100 or so are thought to have survived to see its end.

For all of its sobering history, Rzeszów excels at being weird and wacky and a fine demonstration of this can be had by viewing the Monument to the Revolutionary Act. 

For all of its sobering history, Rzeszów excels at being weird and wacky and a fine demonstration of this can be had by viewing the Monument to the Revolutionary Act. Darek Delmanowicz/PAP

Controversial in the extreme, it’s been described equally as a priceless historical relic, an architectural nightmare, and a detriment to the city’s brand. Yet more have called it a concrete vulva.Darek Delmanowicz/PAP

Measuring 38-metres in height, and taking three-years to build, it was unveiled to many smirks on May 1, 1974, to honour the battles that took place in the region, and while calls for its demolition have persisted, its protectors argue that it has become one of the most recognizable monuments in the country.Darek Delmanowicz/PAP

Controversial in the extreme, it’s been described equally as a priceless historical relic, an architectural nightmare, and a detriment to the city’s brand. Yet more have called it a concrete vulva.

Measuring 38-metres in height, and taking three-years to build, it was unveiled to many smirks on May 1, 1974, to honour the battles that took place in the region, and while calls for its demolition have persisted, its protectors argue that it has become one of the most recognizable monuments in the country.

The curiosities mount – take, for instance, what was Europe’s first circular-shaped pedestrian overpass.Darek Delmanowicz/PAP

Revealed in 2012, and built to incorporate glass panels and wood imported from Cameroon, it’s become a much-loved feature of the city, especially among easily-amused kids.Darek Delmanowicz/PAP

From here, the curiosities mount – take, for instance, what was Europe’s first circular-shaped pedestrian overpass. Revealed in 2012, and built to incorporate glass panels and wood imported from Cameroon, it’s become a much-loved feature of the city especially among easily-amused kids.

And speaking of which, no visit to this town should forego a visit to the Museum of Bedtime Stories. Every bit as bizarre as it sounds, it’s a tribute to PRL cartoon idols such as a penguin called Pik Pok and characters like Bolek and Lolek.

As we all know, however, the best things in life are free, and for those who refuse to dip into their wallets then amusements can be found at the city’s multimedia fountainsDarek Delmanowicz/PAP

Reputedly the third largest in the country, these are especially striking at night when the illuminations are coordinated with audio-visual displays.
 Darek Delmanowicz/PAP

Despite some nods to Western kids’ culture such as the Moomins and the Smurfs, there’s not much that makes sense here to the foreign interloper but that’s part of the fun. It’s baffling, and in the best sense possible – it’s impossible not to be charmed by this museum’s sentimental warmth. And besides, where else can you sit on a school bench next to an oversized bear?

As we all know, however, the best things in life are free, and for those who refuse to dip into their wallets then amusements can be found at the city’s multimedia fountains – reputedly the third largest in the country, these are especially striking at night when the illuminations are coordinated with audio-visual displays.

Occupying a former printing works, Stara Drukarnia is the kind of shadowy, artsy bar that Krakow’s Kazimierz district was once famed for.Stara Drukarnia/Facebook

Traditionalists, meanwhile, are also amply catered for. Meandering past the deliciously baroque Lubomirski Summer Palace, find rose-fringed alleys and avenues lined with pre-war residences that exude pomp and splendour. Come dusk, it’s easy to be overcome by the romance of it all.

How you cannot be charmed by this city I do not know, and I challenge anyone to argue otherwise – for sure, those few that might will not have been to my evening haunt of choice.

Easily the most luxurious hotel in the city, the Bristol Tradition & Luxury Hotel fuses folksy motifs with contemporary styling to present a quite special experience.Hotel Bristol Tradition & Luxury/Facebook

Occupying a former printing works, Stara Drukarnia is the kind of shadowy, artsy bar that Krakow’s Kazimierz district was once famed for. Festooned with wobbly antiques, dogeared books and sepia photographs, its atmosphere is bettered only by its exhaustive selection of domestic craft beers.

Conveniently, it’s also just a short, weary toddle from my hotel of choice. Easily the most luxurious hotel in the city, the Bristol Tradition & Luxury Hotel fuses folksy motifs with contemporary styling to present a quite special experience. I’d hardly call it a snip, but at around PLN 450 a night its considerably cheaper than hotels of its calibre found in Kraków or Warsaw.

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